Last Stop Detroit: The Heidelberg Project
Exploring an abandoned neighborhood turned art installation in the heart of Detroit, Michigan.
*This article is part two of a two-part series about The Heidelberg Project.
My first and only visit to The Heidelberg Project was last summer after spending two long weeks in my hometown visiting family. I was flying out of Detroit Metro Airport, so I took the opportunity. I cruised up 23 N from Upper Sandusky toward Toledo on 1-75. In a flash, the small Lake Erie city was in my rearview, and I was on my way to the intersecting hub of the motorway-like highways of Detroit. The town beneath me, or what was left of it, grew closer and more prominent as I carved through the turnpikes and shifting lanes.
The highway spits me onto a street with more holes than road. Aside from a roaming soul with a grocery cart and a guy or two yelling at cars in the middle of the street, the streets were empty. It was late afternoon on a Thursday. With the help of the two brightly colored houses sticking out like sore thumbs from the lot, I made it to my destination.
I didn't see anyone around at first, which I couldn't decide was good or bad. Granted, I didn't research much about what to expect, but I figured I'd wing it like I always do. I rolled down Heidelberg Street slowly, gawking at the assemblage surrounding me, taking it all in. In the garden across from the houses was a large bathtub repurposed into a garden bed; cars were parked outside, clearly not part of the exhibit.
I pulled over at the end of the street and grabbed my vape pen and camera (phone). A muggy summer day greeted me as I stepped out of the car. It wasn't too hot, and a lovely blue sky blanketed under clouds, shading the sunlight. A light breeze carried me down the street as my eyes widened and my churning art-brain senses heightened. Yes. Heidelberg Street was worth the pit stop, for sure.
Junk Art and A World of Possibilities
The exhibit reminded me of Noah Purifoy's Outdoor Art Museum in Joshua Tree. I picked up "Junk Dada" after visiting LACMA once with my friend Vibha. I was so stoked that I could show her that exhibit. This is because I had just been out in the desert to see the outdoor museum itself for the first time. The story fascinated me. And Noah, like myself, and now I see that also, like Tyree, loved junk. Or at least had a particular affinity and appreciation for the discarded.
There's something so visceral about creating something out of nothing that junk or assemblage art evokes. It resonates with a deepened understanding of art's possibilities, what art can mean, and what it can be and do. There are no definitions, right? Why not connect the dots with what's already there? What meaning can we uncover with these found objects, once full of purpose and in only one interpretation? How can we create a dialogue to tell meaningful stories and convey a powerful message? How can we use the discarded, the disenfranchised, and the neglected to protest the failings of our government and society? Junk art is a world of possibilities in and of itself.
Exploring The Heidelberg Project
After walking around a bit, I found myself closer to the houses. I noticed a makeshift shed-like office across the street, near the garden. It had some information, pamphlets, and a donation bowl. I spotted a scrappy-looking orange tabby cat trying to score some leftover pizza. This little thing was trying to pick up an entire slice, attempting to drag it off and munch down on it somewhere out of sight and in peace. About a minute or two later, watching the cat struggle, the first soul I encounter yells over and says, "Hey. Hey!" I guess they're talking to me? I think to myself. I realize quickly where the voice is coming from, just near the office shed. He saw me take a photo of the pizza cat.
"You didn't give that cat pizza, now did you?" I quickly replied, "Oh, no, of course not. I wouldn't do that. I just thought it was kind of funny, this little guy trying to house an entire slice of pie." He nodded and just said, "Ok, all right. I don’t know who the hell would leave that there." I realized then that this gentleman must be a caretaker and possibly even lives in one of the painted houses. At this point, I noticed a couple of other tourist types checking out the block in the distance- a couple of artsy-looking gals and a guy taking photos with a vintage camera and speaking French. Then, a family of four pulled up in a minivan. They thought I worked there, and I pointed toward the shed where they could find information.
Finding Parallels: Noah Purifoy and Tyree Guynat
To show my support, I threw the rest of the cash I had on me into the donation jar. The man who inquired about the pizza cat situation thanked me. I introduced myself, and so did he, telling me his name was Tyree, and he took care of the block. I thanked him for his services, not realizing initially that he was the artist who started it all. I told him about the Noah Purifoy spot. Knowing exactly what I was talking about, he said something about their affiliation. I realized who I was talking to at this point. When I did my research for the first article in this series, I realized how closely connected the Project was to the work and legacy of Noah Purifoy.
Purifoy has quite a story himself. In brief, Noah founded the Watts Arts Center and was present during the 1964 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His most famous artwork is a piece entitled White/Colored, and it is well-traveled after touring many art museums across the country. It features a "white only" water fountain, typical of what you may find anywhere in public. The "colored only" fountain, which was made from a toilet, is right next to the white fountain.
I find the parallels between Purifoy and Guynat striking. Noah's White/Colored piece is a direct response and protest to the Watts Riots and the continued racial segregation, discrimination, and injustice still prevalent. This is despite some progress toward equal rights at the time. The Heidelberg Project directly protests the residual effects of the 12th Street Riots in Detroit in 1967. There was constant racial tension throughout both cities during that time, and still to this day. Guynat and Purifoy took advantage of the rubble left over from the street battles similarly, creating something better out of something broken. Counterparts install art and community in places of neglect and abandonment while composing a collective story of struggle and resistance.
2 + 2 = 8, Create Your Own Reality
Guynat and I chatted for a few minutes and noticed more people were popping up to meet him. That evening there would be a play production, one of the many neighborhood events that take place periodically. I then finished digging the scene. I walked around the entire perimeter of the block and back again. I noticed a theme of "Time." Everywhere you see numbers, clocks, and signs painted with "The Time is Now" across the entire installation. After further reading, I learned that this was the Project's current Call to Action, and a tribute to Guynat's philosophy of "2+2=8, Create Your Own Reality".
The theme's supposed to get your wheels turning and get you thinking about questions like, Where have I been? Where am I now? Where am I heading? In a more philosophical sense, as the Project's website states, "the clocks parallel reference to what the great philosopher Plato said about time, which was that 'time is a moving image of reality' and how Albert Einstein said that 'time is an illusion.'"
This outlook on time and reality was the foundation of the Project back in the eighties. It has now evolved into a solid doctrine and a driving force for Detroit's future.
Here are a Few Tips if You Visit
Remember, you can still visit, but there are a few things to consider when planning a trip. Here's how you can see this amazing urban art exhibit without being a total dick.
The exhibit is outdoor and public but does have limited hours, 8 am - 7 pm.
You can park on the side of the street.
Respect private property. People still live in the surrounding houses.
Don't fuck with art installations and found objects, either!
Like any city, be aware of your surroundings, don't cater to panhandlers, and be weary of folks offering unauthorized tours.
Don't feed pizza to the cats, or anything else for that matter.
Support The Heidelberg Project and DONATE.
The Time is STILL Now
The Heidelberg Project is a powerful statement against urban blight and decay. It also serves as a critical tool for social change, inspires hope and creativity in communities, and celebrates Detroit's resilience and cultural heritage. Even though Guynat announced a few years ago that they would be dismantling the exhibit over time, there is still plenty to see in the evolving space. It's definitely worth a stop if you're ever in or around Detroit.